Bob and Liz Johnson
(Condensed version was published in Bird Talk in the June, 2003
issue under the title "Try a Free Flight Aviary")
The beautiful natural habitats that most zoos provide for their
animals today have not always been the case. It is hard to imagine
that not very many years ago, the standard housing for even large
animals was a small cage. Zoos, however, have responded to the research
on the physiological and psychological needs of animals as well
as to the cries of the viewing public by constructing at least psychological
space with natural settings for their animals.
Today, the sight of a gorilla in a steel bar cage or a killer whale
swimming in circles in a small tank is considered to be cruel and
Those who keep tropical fish also generally provide them with
a habitat full of aquatic plants, grasses and undersea-type paraphernalia.
Horses are generally provided pastures where they can roam and graze.
The better dog kennels provide runs where the dogs can exercise.
Those who keep waterfowl tend to provide natural-looking ponds.
Reptiles are usually given natural habitat-type terrariums. It seems
that most animals kept as pets or for the enjoyment of humans are
given a taste of what their natural life was meant to be.
Yes, attitudes toward animals are evolving, but what about parrots?
Parrots, naturally creatures of the air and boundless space, seem
to be the last captive animals for whom a natural lifestyle is being
Many are still living in the small sterile environment of a cage,
unable to embrace in any way the unique and wondrous lifestyle for
which they were created.
The avicultural world has made tremendous advances in recent years
in the fields of veterinary care, nutrition, hygiene, and behavioral
advice, yet the plethora of neurotic behaviors that are occurring
among pet birds would indicate that something is still missing in
our understanding of birds’ needs.
Evolutionary echoes in their genetic make-up still cry out for
the need to fly and be a part of nature. Perhaps because they are
so charismatic, humans have taken them from their natural environment
and tried to edit them for our own convenience. We ground them and
try to make them into feathered mammals, but in reality they are
birds after all. Neurotic behaviors often stem from being forced
into an unnatural environment. Could this be the missing link?
Biologists have often used the term “flying primates”
to describe parrots’ intelligence and their complex social
life. Yet few people would think it ethical to keep an ape in a
cage in their front room.
Cages have been associated with birds, however, since the dawn of
birdkeeping. Even the term ”cage bird” has been applied
to pet birds so much that it has become a generally accepted descriptive
Perhaps it is just easier this way, since birds’ natural behaviors
are not compatible with the lifestyle of most people and are such
that they pose a danger to our homes and to themselves in our homes.
We are still living in the Dark Ages in this respect. Little progress
has been made in the housing aspect of birdkeeping, except perhaps
for better quality or slightly larger cages.
They are still cages, which curtail a bird’s natural behaviors.
Old ideas die hard.
Although the following statement by Peter Freund, a physicist
at the University of Chicago, as quoted in HYPERSPACE by Michio
Kaku, refers to a Cheetah, it could just as easily be referring
to a parrot: “Think for a moment of a Cheetah, a sleek, beautiful
animal, one of the fastest on earth, which roams freely on the savannas
In its natural habitat, it is a magnificent animal, almost a work
of art, unsurpassed in speed or grace by any other animal. Now think
of a Cheetah that has been captured and thrown into a miserable
cage in a zoo!
We see only the broken spirit of the Cheetah in the cage, not its
original power and elegance…we only see the Cheetah when its
grace and beauty have been stripped away.”
Viewed apart from their natural surroundings, parrots can express
only a very small part of their full potential. They are more beautiful
and complete when viewed within the context of their natural environment.
We owe it to them to provide at least a semblance of this natural
environment even if it means simply psychological space within the
confines of a home. Adding a few non-toxic trees and plants and
exposing the birds to fresh air and unfiltered light (not necessarily
direct sunlight, but light that is not filtered through glass or
plastic), in a wired-in area outside when the weather permits is
a big step toward enhancing a bird’s environment and thus
making a bird’s life more in accord with the life he was designed
Although most people understand that light acts as a nutrient
in the sense that it stimulates the production of vitamin D in the
body, the fact is that it does far more than that by acting as a
nutrient for the endocrine system.
Each of an organism’s glands is nourished by a different frequency
of the light spectrum, which is needed for the optimum functioning
of that gland. Thus if one is not exposed to the full spectrum of
light frequency, one or more glands will be unable to function at
All the knowledge we have gleaned in recent years about exercise
physiology and the need for vigorous exercise for people goes double
for birds. They obviously were designed for flight.
Saying that they get enough exercise climbing around their cage
or playing with toys is like saying that we get enough exercise
walking from the TV to the refrigerator.
David McCluggage, DVM, in his book “Holistic Care For Birds”
(pgs. 50, 51) states, “Birds are meant to fly and are most
happy and secure when they can.
If a bird cannot fly, its cardiovascular system won’t work
hard enough to remain healthy.
They need to fly for fun and for exercise and to escape from danger.
A bird that cannot fly will tend to be more fearful because it knows
it is vulnerable.”
Birds expend tremendous amounts of energy in flight and they are
gifted with a metabolism that provides this bountiful energy. When
confined to a cage or otherwise prevented from flying, this pent-up
energy must be diverted in some way. This could well be a factor
in much of the psychologically caused feather plucking, self-mutilation,
excessive screaming, biting, and other neurotic behaviors.
Imagine a young child who is brimming with energy and who normally
runs, jumps, climbs, skips, and hops to expend it, being confined
to a telephone booth with food and a few toys. This bottled up energy
would surely soon be expressed in some form of deviant behavior.
There are people who will argue that some birds, especially some
Amazons, are sluggish and prefer not to move much. This merely shows
that these birds adapt to inactivity as readily as some people adapt
to the couch potato syndrome. This behavior in no way implies that
inactivity is natural or healthful.
Contrary to popular opinion, we have found that birds do not lose
their pet qualities when given space to fly. They become less codependent
and more self-directed, but still enjoy interacting with people.
They seem to enjoy sharing the same space with their humans, which
is why we prefer walk-in type habitats rather than suspended flights.
A non-domineering relationship develops and human and bird become
co-inhabitants rather than captor and captive.
There is an alternative to clipped wings and confining cages or
even free flight in a house or outdoors, which is fraught with danger.
Natural habitats are the wave of the future.
Many people who keep softbills provide these for their birds but
since they are seldom addressed as housing for parrots, there is
little or no information on exactly how to do this within the confines
of a home. Many people have felt that although a natural habitat
would be ideal for their pet, it is not feasible in their situation.
The scope of this article, besides presenting a rationale for the
need for natural habitats, is to suggest ways this can be done to
fit almost any space or budget.
If a bird is to have free flight inside a home, care must be taken
to bird-proof his space.
No hot stove or pans of hot water, no open toilets, no ceiling fans
on, no open doors or windows, no dogs or cats who are unaccustomed
to birds, no uncovered mirrors for him to fly into, no other birds
in a cage (this poses a danger of bitten toes), no valuable furniture
or decorations, etc. If this seems like a monumental undertaking,
one might consider providing their bird or birds with a space set
up specifically for them with an environment that they can relate
to and feel comfortable in … in other words a free-flight
Health experts have said for years that it is healthful to walk
barefoot in the grass due to the low-frequency energies emitted
by the earth, but only recently have scientists measured these energies.
Living beings were designed to resonate to this natural frequency
pulsation in order to evolve harmoniously. Dr. Andrija Puharich
found that the earth’s pulse rate of 7.83 Hz makes people
and animals “feel good”. Birds seem instinctively to
feel this energy, as when given the opportunity, they enjoy walking,
rolling and playing on the ground.
Trees also conduct this energy and birds seem to gravitate instinctively
to trees. Ground is the base of the rainforest and we have kept
birds this way for more than 25 years with excellent results.
An extremely important consideration when placing more than one
bird in a habitat is compatibility. At first, because it is a new
situation and neutral territory, most birds will cohabit peacefully.
After they become acclimated and especially when they mature and
bond with another bird, many species will become territorial and
attempt to drive the others away.
We find that these squabbles occur more frequently among those of
the same species as opposed to interspecies interactions. Also,
many of the problems we have encountered are the smaller birds such
as Lories, Quakers and Conures annoying or even attacking the Macaws
We have thus had to separate the aggressive type of small birds
not only because they were in danger themselves but also because
they pose a danger to the others.
Once when two of our Red Lories decided to bond and build a nest
on the ground, they viciously attacked any bird that came near.
They even attacked their own siblings everywhere in the quarter-acre
Needless to say, they were separated from the others.
It has been our experience that, especially with macaws and Amazons,
it is advisable to have the habitat within view of one’s house
or preferably, attached to the house for better monitoring of the
behaviors. Like people, friendships are not always permanent and
sometimes those who were formerly best buddies suddenly become archenemies
and fights can ensue. Interactions must be carefully monitored.
There are some birds that have adapted so well to life in a house
as functioning members of a family, that they prefer this to life
in a habitat with other birds.
We have a few macaws who seem to be perfectly happy to interact
with us in the house and want no part of life outside, but even
these don’t want to be locked in a cage.
They are in full flight, but seem instinctively to know how to behave
Each bird is a unique personality and it is necessary to observe
and accommodate the proclivities of each one.
Freedom is awesome to one who is unaccustomed to it and in many
cases a bird who has been confined to a cage and has never known
freedom will seem frightened at first even when placed in a larger
cage. This reaction is not natural, however, but one that has been
instilled by years of confinement.
It takes patience and gradual acclimatization to slightly larger
and larger cages until finally the inhabitant discovers the joy
of flight and what it is like to be a bird.
Then they usually want no part of being in a cage again.
Additionally, handicapped or extremely shy birds can easily become
targets for the bullies, so these should never be placed in a free-flight
with fully flighted birds.
Many birds tend to pick on the weaker ones and the non-flighted
birds become very vulnerable.
Nature is seldom compassionate.
It is not advisable to place any type of boxes or small enclosures
in a free-flight with more than two birds unless one is absolutely
certain that the species of birds to inhabit it are colony dwellers,
such as Quakers or some species of Cockatoos.
Even though the human may intend them for shelter or sleeping quarters,
most birds usually perceive them as nestboxes and can become very
territorial and aggressive when anywhere near what they perceive
as their nesting site. If, however, your intent is to breed a pair
of birds, then a nestbox in a free-flight habitat situation for
just that pair will help to promote healthier and happier parents
and thus healthier and happier babies.
The three main objections to building a habitat seem to be:
(1). You think you can’t afford it … (Solution). If
you can do the labor yourself or con a friend into doing it for
you, you will be surprised at how inexpensively it can be done.
It does not require any special ability and even if you are the
type who always hits the nail squarely on the thumb, you will be
amazed at how easily you can complete a simple habitat enclosure.
(2). You think you don’t have the space … (Solution).
Hopefully, we will be able to give you a few ideas about how to
use the space that you do have in ways that you hadn’t thought
(3). Both of the above … (Solution). Both of the above.
The easiest, quickest, and cheapest way to build a habitat is
to utilize an existing enclosure such as a spare room, a porch,
an enclosed or screened patio, a gazebo or even a garage. Even a
portion of one of these spaces can sometimes be sufficient, depending
on the number and size of your birds. A word of caution here, NEVER
keep your bird on a screened porch or patio unless you have secured
it with a heavy wire mesh.
Even if your bird is in a cage, a predator can tear through the
screen and grab the bird before you even know he is there. Although
the most common culprits in these cases are raccoons, one of the
many such cases I know about involved a couple who were having lunch
on their patio and had their bird in a cage on a table next to theirs
less than six feet away.
A cat came through the screen, knocked the cage off the table, ripped
it open and took off with the bird before they could even stand
up. Even though they found and shot the cat the next day, it was
too late to help the bird.
I also know of several cases where a raccoon came through the screen
of an open window into a house and took a bird out of the living
room or bedroom. We have heavy wire mesh over the outside of every
window of our house.
If you have artistic inclinations, the habitat can be made a part
of the décor of the house.
One of the most beautiful habitats I ever saw was built as an island
in the middle of a living room.
It was a free-form design about twelve feet in diameter with plants,
trees, a pond, a waterfall, and three birds all enclosed with 1¼
inch diameter round glass rods running from floor to ceiling about
2 inches apart.
Another area, seldom used, that can be utilized, if you have very
small birds, is the top of the walls where they meet the ceiling.
You can build an enclosure that attaches to the wall and the ceiling
coming out from the wall and down from the ceiling about 2 or 3
feet and extending completely around the room. This should be attached
to a small walk-in sized enclosure that you can enter to interact
with your birds. The advantage of this is that it is space that
generally is not used for anything else. Another space saving possibility
is to construct an oversized bay window enclosed with wire and screen
that can be opened or closed according to the weather.
The ideal habitat would consist of a room with a window or door
leading to the outside through which the birds could fly into an
outdoor enclosure during the day and back into the room at night
to sleep with the window or door closed in cold weather.
The outdoor enclosure can be any size from a window box attached
to the wall outside the window to a large free-flight rainforest
size enclosure. The inside part of the enclosure can be anything
from a window box attached to the wall inside the window to the
entire room. If there is a problem with the neighbors, a small outside
enclosure or window box can be concealed inside a lanai or behind
a decorative privacy wall. The most important factor in any habitat
design is that it has easy access for you to enter and interact
with your bird or birds.
All portions of the room comprising the interior portion of a
habitat should be protected with sheet metal paneling, especially
any wood trim. This is true also for any part of the outside wall
to which they have access.
Before beginning construction of an outdoor habitat, it is wise
to check with zoning restrictions and requirements for your particular
area. Some counties require a permit for any permanent structure,
such as that which might involve a poured concrete slab or footing.
If you are going to build an outdoor habitat, although there are
many possible designs, there are a few fundamentals that must be
included for it to be successful.
First, the outer perimeter should set on a footing that extends
at least two to three feet below ground level.
An alternative to a footing would be a three-foot wide strip of
wire mesh laid flat a few inches below the surface of the ground
all the way around the outside of the perimeter wall.
The inside edge should be firmly attached to the bottom of the perimeter
wall before being covered with dirt. This will prevent predators
from digging under the perimeter wall to get in.
Another protective device that could be considered is an electrified
fence, about 12 inches high, completely around the area. You can
easily step over it but it will keep most animals away from the
area, thus removing the stress the birds have from just seeing them.
An option that offers multiple advantages is to construct your perimeter
wall out of concrete block and attach your wire framework to the
top of the wall. This will prevent predators and other animals from
climbing around the outside of the habitat.
It will give the birds inside some protection from high winds and
it will prevent the birds from seeing all of the strange animals
that stress them so much as well as preventing passersby from seeing
Not all predators have to tunnel under the perimeter to gain access
to the habitat.
Some of the most dangerous can go right through the wire. Rats can
go through 1”x 1” wire easily and so can some pretty
Mice can go through 1/2”x 1” wire and so can smaller
snakes. Of course the most dangerous of all, the mosquito, is unhampered
by either size wire.
Thus the outdoor portion of any habitat must be enclosed with screen
to keep out mosquitoes as well as the many other kinds of biting
and stinging insects. This is for your benefit as well as the birds
if you have an indoor/outdoor habitat. The screen must be at least
4” away from 1”x 1” wire and at least 2”
away from ½”x 1” wire to keep the birds from
tearing it up. The screen, however, will not keep out rats or mice
who can chew holes in it and then go through the wire. Additionally,
raccoons will tear out whole sections of screen looking for a way
to get in. So, unless you use the concrete block wall as your choice
for a perimeter wall, you will need a layer of ¼”x
¼” or ½”x ½” wire mesh outside
the screen to protect the screen. A possible alternative to this
outer wire might be to use Pet Screen (manufactured by Phifer) instead
of regular screening. They claim that it is seven times stronger
than regular screen and impervious to cats and dogs. The sample
that I inspected looked like it would probably hold up to a raccoon
as well; however, since it is a relatively new product, I haven’t
heard from any long-term users yet.
It is important to utilize construction materials that are appropriate
for the kinds of birds you have or will have. Most enclosures use
some form of wire mesh. There are many kinds of wire mesh on the
market today plus new ones coming out periodically. Selecting which
to use will often require some compromises since no one wire has
all of the desirable qualities to fit all situations.
Do not let price be your primary guide as no matter how cheap it
is it can be very expensive if it does not do the job you are using
it for. If you are building an enclosure to house a variety of species,
then you must use wire that will accommodate the largest specie.
The strength of the wire is a factor of both the gauge and the size
of the opening…the larger the opening the more leverage that
can be brought to bear to bend or break the wire. However, the wire
serves more than one purpose.
In addition to serving as the basis for an enclosure to keep your
birds inside, it serves to keep predators outside and it serves
as a medium for your birds to climb and play on.
Also, if installed properly, it serves to enhance the rigidity of
The key factor for keeping your birds in the enclosure is the
strength of the wire. A welded wire with ½”x 1”
or 1”x 1” openings will generally accomplish more of
what you want from a perimeter wire. Less than a ½”x
1” opening presents the risk of a larger bird getting his
toe caught when flying off from the wire. Greater than a 1”x
1” opening offers more leverage for the bird to bend or break
the wire and you would need to use a heavier gauge wire.
A 16ga. wire will safely house birds up through Amazon size. For
birds larger than Amazons up through Blue and Gold size macaws you
need at least 14ga. wire and for Greenwings and Hyacinths you need
at least 12ga. wire.
For those who prefer to use ½” x 3” wire for
Greenwings and Hyacinths, the added leverage would require a minimum
of 10ga. wire. Many people like the look of some of the new woven
wire meshes available today, however, other than the aesthetics
I find the welded wire to have more advantages.
Although a woven mesh will keep your birds in and predators out,
it does not offer a comfortable medium for the birds to climb and
play on nor does it add rigidity to the framework.
In fact, if proper tension is not kept on it a bird can pinch or
catch a toe in it.
Stainless steel wire has been available now for quite a few years
but the price is still prohibitive for the average person. Although
stainless steel would be your best choice, galvanized steel has
been in use for a long time and with a few precautions will safely
do a good job for a lot less money. If you do decide to use galvanized
wire, be sure to get a brand that is galvanized after welding.
Most are not.
I have used a number of different brands and I have found that I
like the Aquamesh wire made by Riverdale Mills the best. The first
and most important precaution to take when using galvanized wire
is to be sure that the wire you use is heavy enough so that your
birds cannot tear it up.
If a bird breaks off a piece of wire and swallows it, his digestive
juices will rapidly dissolve the zinc coating and it will be absorbed
into his body so quickly that it can have fatal results.
Before using galvanized wire you should weather it for about a
month and then go over it with a wire brush and white vinegar to
remove any loose zinc powder or burrs.
You should also keep your bird’s calcium level high and give
him some apple every day.
Calcium blocks zinc absorption and the pectin in the apple helps
to flush out zinc as well as many other toxins. (Actually zinc is
an essential mineral in small quantities.)
If in addition to all this you will read a current book on natural
health and nutrition, you and your bird can both enjoy far greater
than average health even with the galvanized wire.
Never use wood except for perches, swings, or toys that you don’t
mind having chewed up and especially never use treated wood for
anything. I have found that the aluminum square tubing made for
screen enclosures works best for the perimeter framework because
you can screw the wire mesh to the inside using ¾ inch, #
10, hex washer head, self drilling (“tek”), sheet metal
screws and just roll in the screen on the outside.
Other possibilities that might be considered would be the framework
kits for shadehouses, greenhouses, or carports. You could also construct
a framework out of PVC pipe, PVC conduit or galvanized steel pipe
or conduit. The most important thing to consider when choosing is
can you adapt your choice to meet the minimum standards necessary
for a successful habitat.
If you have any screen enclosure companies in your area, it would
be advisable to get several estimates for the framework and screen
from them. Because they buy the materials wholesale and prefab the
entire structure at their plant, they can often build the entire
framework with the screen at about what you would have to pay for
the materials to build it yourself.
The size of your habitat should, of course, be as large as you
can make it.
There are certain minimums, however, that are necessary to achieve
You need to have sufficient space to prevent overcrowding for the
number and kinds of birds that you have.
This is especially important if you have more than two birds or
if the two birds you do have are not extremely compatible. Overcrowding
can cause psychological stress creating arguments and fights resulting
in injuries or death. A good minimum to strive for is 2.2 cubic
feet for each gram of the total number of birds in your enclosure.
The length of your habitat will be the limiting factor in allowing
your birds to fly.
For a bird to attain a sustained flight the habitat must be long
enough for him to fly in a straight line for at least two seconds.
To allow for continuous flight, the habitat must be wide enough
so that when the bird reaches the end of the habitat he can circle
around and fly back without having to stop and restart. This means
a length of at least 10’ to 12’ for Parakeets and 50’
to 60’ for Hyacinths and a width of at least 5’ to 6’
for Parakeets and
30’ to 40’ for Hyacinths.
Any outdoor habitat or outdoor portion of a habitat should have
a location, design, or camouflage that prevents passers-by from
knowing that it is there.
In addition a good security system is advisable since bird theft
has become a major business in this country.
Your habitat design should offer protection from the elements
such a rain, wind, sun, cold, heat, etc. An indoor/outdoor habitat
pretty much takes care of this problem as it gives the birds a choice
when outdoor conditions become uncomfortable. Most birds love to
take a bath in the rain but after about ten or fifteen minutes they
start looking for a way out. They also like to sunbathe for short
periods of time but prefer being in the shade during the mid part
of the day.
Plants and trees are an essential part of any habitat. This can
also present one of your biggest challenges as although the birds
enjoy them, what they enjoy most about them is seeing how fast they
can destroy them. You should choose plants that are non-toxic but
I have not found any list that I totally agree with. Many lists
name some plants as toxic that I have had growing in my habitat
for years and do not name other plants that I had always considered
toxic. My feeling is that it is best to err on the side of caution
and when in doubt leave it out. Although in the wild parrots eat
some plants believed toxic without any ill effects, many believe
this is because the mineral rich rock they ingest on the cliffs
protects them. As a precaution, I give my birds a product called
Mezotrace tablets (found in most health food stores), which is a
similar rock, put in tablet form as a mineral supplement for people.
I put them in their seed dishes and even though they taste like
a rock all of the birds love them.
Although an outdoor habitat should have direct access to the house,
it will probably have a door opening to the outside also. Any openings
to the outside should have two doors in series spaced far enough
apart so that the first door can be closed before the second is
opened. The outer door should be secured with a double cylinder
A serious threat to your birds can be the various environmental
toxins found in today’s society. If you have a swimming pool
near your habitat, you must keep your chlorine level at a minimum
and if you should ever need to shock your pool, remove your birds
to a distant location first. You might want to consider ozone purification
instead of chlorine. It’s much safer and more effective. Lawn
spray is probably the number one killer of wild birds in most residential
areas and can be just as deadly to parrots.
Wind drift can carry its deadly effects for an amazing distance.
When you are building any outdoor habitat, if the ground you are
building it on has ever been sprayed with any type of lawn or garden
spray, you should turn on a sprinkler and soak it for about forty-eight
hours before putting your birds in it. Parrots love to play and
dig in the ground and you want to be sure that all toxic residues
are flushed deep down into the soil. It would also be a good idea
to go over the area with a magnet to pick up any nails, screws or
other small pieces of metal that may have been dropped there even
as much as twenty or more years previously when the house was being
If you don’t find them your parrot will. If you have an indoor
habitat or in the indoor portion of your habitat you can use potted
plants but do not use commercial potting soil as most of these are
impregnated with pesticides and fungicides.
The number one problem that most people have with parrots is neighbors.
As a precautionary measure you should have walls, trees and bushes
placed appropriately around your house and habitat to absorb sound
before it reaches your neighbors.
Inside your habitat you may want to have a waterfall, pond and/or
A waterfall should not have a heavy flow of water and any ponds
or fountains should be no deeper than the length of your smallest
bird’s legs and have a non-slippery bottom.
You should have perches and swings scattered throughout but leave
an unhampered flight path for continuous flight. You will also need
to have multiple food and water locations throughout, as if you
have several birds, sometimes one will decide to guard the food
dish and not let anyone else eat. You can make numerous healthy
foods available to your bird in many interesting ways in a habitat.
For instance, a sprout garden can be planted either in the ground
or in a planter and covered with wire mesh about 1” or 2”
above the dirt.
This allows the birds to eat the sprouts as they grow but not dig
in the soil and destroy the seedbed.
You can also attach (by tying or impaling on a nail) various fruits
and vegetables to the trunks or branches of the trees for your birds
to find and eat.
If you should need to have two or more sections in your habitat,
be sure that two layers of wire at least two inches apart separate
them. Also, never put a bird that is in a cage in with free flying
birds unless the cage is double wired. Birds love to bite toes through
As you design and build your habitat, keep in mind that Murphy’s
Law is very applicable when dealing with parrots. If something can
go wrong, it will go wrong. It is much less expensive and easier
to anticipate the problems and prevent them to begin with than to
have to redo what you have already done at some later date, not
to mention the consequences that can befall your parrot.
We have tried to include here the problems that our birds have taught
us about, but there are always new unanticipated ones cropping up.
To update your information or if you have questions that have not
been answered, go to our website www.ShyneFoundation.org .
Remember, when you take control of a life you have an obligation
to make that life worthwhile.
Go for it.
1. The Human Nature Of Birds by Theodore Barber, PhD
2. The Body Electric by Dr. Robert Becker
3. Cross Currents by Dr. Robert Becker
4. Hyperspace by Michio Kaku, PhD.
5. Holistic Care For Birds by Dr. David McCluggage, DVM
6. Health And Light by John Ott